We took a boat to Koh Tonsay, Rabbit Island, today. It’s supposed to have the prettiest beaches, and we were a bit worried about the GF’s mother coming all the way across the world to mediocre beaches, so went to inspect.
It was a very easy journey. The boat prices are high but fixed, we got our coupon and found our boat and went across. For a few moments it was back in the delight of taking a boat from island to island, the finest thing about this region, but it was a short journey, as Koh Tonsay is one of the closest to the shore. We arrived at the main beach, with clustered hammocks and shelters, and a few people swimming, a few more in loungers. For what is supposed to be an extremely busy time – a weekend and CNY – it was very quiet. The beach itself was pleasant, though I am so spoiled by the beaches I’ve seen around the region. Brown sand, a little developed feeling, thought in a lowkey sort of way. To the right of the beach there was a huge pile of sand as the island has, apparently, been given over to a developer, so I think the place is already past when it was considered one of the loveliest spots in the country.
We went on the walk around the island. The first bit was a bit upsetting as it was strewn with rubbish, but after about 20 minutes we got to a point where the path was pleasant to walk down, and it felt clean and unspoilt, with views over the other islands. This was definitely the prettiest part of the island, and I think the national park walk yesterday must have been like this before it was turned to concrete. There is also concrete being laid down here, so it won’t last long, and as we walked we came to patches where a hillside had been levelled for a resort, and where bulldozers stood around a vast, devastated sandy plain. A few beaches, all of them backing onto the construction zone, as that of course is where the resort will be.
It was tremendously sad again. I suppose all the hotels and resorts I’ve stayed in over the years have done something similar and this time I actually saw it.
After returning we went to Kep’s best restaurant for crab. It was very tasty, though the prawns were even better. The crab was very fiddly, and had less meat than one would like, given the effort involved, but still quite delicious.
While the trip to the island will do for once or twice, I think the GF and I will still keep plotting a better trip. The house we are staying in is extremely nice, but it’s not worth, by itself, flying half the way across the world.